The Wrong Way To Hem

As we all try to stretch our dollars to make them go farther, there are times when one can actually be wasting them.

Recently I have been getting a variety of phone calls in reference to how much it costs to have a pair of pants hemmed.  The cost ranges based on what type of hem, type of fabric, whether they are lined, etc.  Pant hem costs can range from $18 to $35, sometimes more (yet rare), depending on what is entailed.

For many of my clients, this is a small price to pay for a pair of pants to fit them the way that fits their life-style, along with the ability to gravitate towards them when selecting what to wear for the day.  For other first time clients who are in need of hiring a seamstress/tailor, the price is too high.

But, for those who are trying to save financially, here are some of the things that they are doing to keep costs down, along with the cost of their choice:

1. Not hemming and allowing their pants to drag on the ground.  This causes more damage than it’s worth.  If all you need is a 1” hem, by allowing them to drag, you are actually destroying the ability to have the hem fixed at a later time, at the proper length.  Also, it looks sloppy.  If you are in the position for a job, and it comes down to two candidates, the one with the pant hem dragging will be seen as sloppy and unorganized.
2. Using Duct Tape.  This is a great option when you are a teen who is creating their own “look” that is worn to school as an expression of themself, around town or around the home.  It is not a great temporary fix for jeans or dress slacks that you wear to different functions and work.  Actually it will cost you more in the long run, as it will leave residue on your pants that is extremely difficult to remove, if at all.  If it can be hemmed, by removing the duct tape, cutting the hem then folding up before stitching, it will cost more.  The seamstress/tailor will need to calculate in the cost of the needle, because it is certain that his/her needle will be destroyed after working on your one pair of pants due to the sticky residue left, making it non-usable for future jean hems that might be in his/her pile of repairs.  There will be more work involved in hemming your pants that you might decide to just purchase a new pair.
3. Using Self-adhesive Velcro.  I don’t know why this approach was taken, but I received a desperate call for help with the caller asking what she could do.  She was left with Velcro backing on part of her pants that she was having a difficult time removing.  The best advice would be to take them to the cleaners to see if they can remove the residue.  I personally will not provide the service to remove it.  When asked how much I would charge, I gave her my rate, with an “approximate” cost (since I did not know what was entailed).  I was told that she only  $25 on her pants.  This $25 pair of pants has now cost the client the cost of Velcro, time to iron on, time to remove, time to put through the washer, frustration/panic time, possible dry-cleaner time, with the possibility of having to toss a brand new pair of pants out to the landfill. 
4. This new product called “Style Snaps”  I have seen this product advertised but have not used it myself.  I did have a client call me to alter her pants because the product did not work out for her, as the product did not adhere and stay put.  Still, I will not say the product doesn’t work, because I have not used it, yet have no intention of trying it either.  There is a reason that it is said “If it seems too good to be true, it probably is”.
5. Cuff your pants.  This is not an uncommon decision for those who found their $10 jeans, they just purchased, on clearance.  Many times I recommend that they return them and purchase the right size at the correct length if they don’t like the cuffed look.

My reason for writing this is to educate.  I have no desire to make one feel as though their ideas are bad, or to make them feel they need to use my services.

The cost of purchasing a pair of slacks that are too long can include the travel time and alteration cost.  You could spend valuable time trying different quick fixes resulting in your need to toss them or decide to pay for the service so you can wear them.  Another option would be to have a family member or friend do the work as a favor (some are very good).  Or, let them hang in your closet a few years until you finally toss them out while you purchase a few more.

In today’s economy, it is wiser to purchase a sufficient amount of pants to get you through until your next wash day.  If you find a pair that fit well except for the length it is wise to have them hemmed.

Just like any job, any task you undertake takes a certain amount of time, which comes at a cost.  A seamstress/tailor, who is running a business, carries a certain amount of overhead including paying the taxes associated with it, which needs to be calculated into their costs or it becomes a hobby.   A hobby doesn’t pay the bills.

One way you can save on your alteration cost:  We all know that many retailers have sales.  We also know that retailers do not make a size that fits all, more often for women.  Consider waiting for the sale and use the savings towards the cost of the alteration.  But, don’t value the cost of your alteration on the cost you paid.  The goal is to look great in that fabulous pair of pants that makes you feel great wearing them.

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

What can be done to my Wedding Gown???

Can a gown be taken out?  Generally, with today’s off the rack styles, it is rare that there is sufficient seam allowance to do this.  I highly recommend NOT doing this if your gown only has a 5/8” seam.  It is better to find a gown that is slightly too big than to purchase something too small.  NOTE:  Always purchase a size based on your largest measurement!

It is important for clients to understand, that albeit opening up seams and creating a larger garment can be done, it is an expensive alteration request and there is no guarantee the dress will look like the original, as you have are now adding new seam lines.  So, with that in mind, here are a few options for taking your gown out:

• I have added more room to a variety of gowns when the client has provided the same fabric so proper gussets can be added. 

1. Some clients have brought me an identical gown for me to use the material to create the necessary gusset. 
2. Or taking your gown to a quality fabric store or contacting the manufacturer of your gown and acquiring matching fabric
3. Occasionally I will provide the service to search for the fabric.

• Add a Corset - Another option many of my clients have requested is to add a corset in the back.  Corsets allow for slight fluctuations in body size.  This can be expensive as well; depending on what specifically is entailed.  But all my clients that have requested this service have been very pleased with the results.

1. Matching or contrasting fabric needs to be acquired, along with the notions.
2. The tie ribbon & loops can also be created when they can not be found already made.  This happens frequently with so many varied fabric textures and colors

Can you add a Modesty Panel?  Modesty panels are becoming a common request due to the many styles of gowns that have a very low cleavage cut.  Whether wedding or prom, many of the girls want their dads to see them in a more modest style, and others find it to be more flattering while not having to worry if too much is showing.

What type of bustles can be done?  Every dress & client is different.  There are many options to a bustle.  When the client has her dress on, I look at how the dress fits her, how it flows, etc.  Then I discuss with them what they envision their bustle to look as well as how they would like it to function.  If they have an idea in mind, I will pin the bustle to show them how it looks.  If I see another possibility, I will show them that look as well, so that they are able to determine which bustle suits them best.  The goal is to find what is appropriate for the style of the dress as well as the wearer of the gown.

Is there any other option other than a bustle?  Certainly. 

• You can remove the train and create a straight hem for your gown.  This is a great option for the bride who doesn’t want things to be too complicated on her wedding day.  Discuss how this will be achieved with your seamstress, to be sure it is the style you desire.
• Ask your seamstress to create a special wristlet made with fabric from your dress or a soft, matching fabric.  You can request one that is beaded, possibly using beads you provide.  This is a nice option for the moderate trained dress, allowing you to comfortably wear the loop while you dance, or when walking around, yet lets you decide when you want to let the dress hang naturally for pictures.

What other things can I do to my gown?  This is generally done for the one who wants their gown to be unique and different from anyone else who might wear the same dress.

• Add/Remove trim and/or beading
• Add/Remove sleeves
• Add/Remove hem embellishments
• Add/Remove embellishments throughout the dress
• Add heirloom pieces into your gown (“something old”)

The options are endless.  Just discuss what it is you would like to have done with your seamstress.  A good seamstress will be open to your ideas and will discuss the pros/cons of how it will affect the look of your dress or whether it will work with the fabric and style of your dress.  But ultimately, the decision is yours.

Bridal, Prom & Other Formal Wear Alterations – What to Expect & What Will it Cost

Bridal, Prom & Other Formal Wear Alterations – What to Expect & What Will it Cost

By Laura D. Field of Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

As a seamstress, there is nothing better than seeing a client leave with a smile knowing that you made their garment fit them the way they envisioned it to fit.  It’s a joy to see that the final look is flattering on them as well as makes them feel beautiful.

My services include a large variety of alterations and custom sewing, but this article is about altering the gowns.  The client is either arriving with a gown they spent many hours shopping for, an heirloom gown that was passed down to them, or having to wear a dress that was selected for them (re: bridesmaids).  My goal as a seamstress is to provide a fit that works for the dress and client.  Many times they have an idea of what they want, and as a team, I work with my client to reach their goal.  Sometimes, I might make a few suggestions, and sometimes I will suggest not doing something if the change is not that imperative to the occasion.

Many of my clients are repeat or recommended by my past clients.  But I do get many new clients who, for the first time, need a seamstress to alter their gown.  The first question I often get is “How much will this cost?” along with the added comment that “It just needs a few simple alterations”.  It is so difficult for a seamstress to provide an estimate over the phone without seeing the dress in person, the materials it is made out of, and how the dress is fitting the particular client.  Everyone is shaped different, making the same gown look different on each lady who wears it.  And, what might seem “simple” is actually a little more involved than what one would generally expect.

How to prepare for your fitting and alterations:

• BRING the shoes that you plan on wearing, or at least a pair in the same height you expect to wear.  Change in height equals additional alteration costs
• Wear/Bring your undergarments you plan on wearing.  Every undergarment is different and can add inches.
• Bring along the required cash deposit
• BE ON TIME – If you are late, and/or another client arrives on time, you risk the possibility of your appointment being rescheduled and possibly being charged for lost time.  Time is set aside specifically for you, to discuss what you want done, measure, pin, etc., to be sure I know what you are looking to have done so if can be done efficiently.  Call 24-48 hrs in advance to cancel your appointment.

What can you expect when you arrive for your fitting and alterations: 

• Inspection of your gown to see what type of material I will be working with, how it is made, how it fits you, etc.
• Discussion of what you are looking to have done.  This is your gown.  Since I am not wearing the gown I will need to understand what you specifically want done. 
• I will always explain why I can’t do something you had your heart on, and offer an alternative, or suggest not doing it at all.  But in the end, it is your decision.
• I will suggest what I see needing to be done, but you will never be pressured to use that suggestion.
• You will leave with an estimate of your alteration costs.  This is just an “estimate” and could change depending on finding something I didn’t expect, you making changes, etc.
• You will find that I want you to feel confident in knowing that I’m here to do a quality job for you.  You will be given my contact information so that you can reach me via phone or email for any questions you might have after you leave.

When Should I Book my First Fitting/Consult?

• Brides - at least 6 weeks in advance
• Bridesmaids, Mother of the Bride/Groom - at least 2 weeks in advances unless it is a little more detailed than the average dress
• Flower girls - 2-6 weeks.  These little dresses range from simple to as elegant as the bride.  If it is a simple little dress 2 weeks, otherwise 6 weeks for the dresses that have lots of layers, beads, or any extra "fluff".
• From March through July, add an extra 2 weeks.
• Rush Fees are added to dress alterations where enough lead time is not given.

BUT, How Much Does It Cost??

This is a tough question to answer over the phone.  I don’t know until I see you, your gown, shoes you will be wearing, etc.

So, to help a little, this is what I share with those who are price shopping:

•  Bridesmaids, Mother of the Bride/Groom, Flower Girls, and young ladies donning their Prom gowns, the average gown is $150

• Bridal Gowns have an average of $350

Gowns Are Not All the Same:  I did a prom dress for $50, yet I’ve done prom dresses for $200 and some were $350 (the full, princess style gowns).  I’ve done bridesmaid dresses for less and others more.  It all depends on the dress, the client, and what needs to be done.

Bridal gowns do average $350.00.  I’ve recently done a bridal alteration for $150, yet I have a couple of dresses that I’m working on now that are over $600 in alteration costs.  How does it get to be so expensive?  It is all dependent on the type of fabric, how many layers that need to be hemmed, fullness of the gown, how many layers of tulle netting, type of bustle, type of fitting changes that need to be made, etc.  If everything needs to be done along with a lot of changes, the price will be higher than the average.

What I recommend if you are price shopping, is to understand that a seamstress that has been altering gowns for some time won’t be able to give you a blank price/quote.  It’s not that we don’t understand that you are working with a budget, but rather we understand the time involved in taking apart and remaking the gown for you and your unique specifications.  Select a seamstress you feel comfortable working with so that you can enjoy the experience of preparing for your wedding.

Custom Sewing for Reiki Practitioner

Creating a Custom Look for a Reiki Practitioner

Ami, of A Healer in Every Family, LLC. in Hopkinton NH came to me inquiring about creating a working vest that would allow her to wear her crystals that she uses in her treatment sessions.  She needed something comfortable with extra pockets, in a fabric that provided a warm earthly feel to her sessions. 

After some consultation time, deciding on her goals, we selected a pattern that could be altered to meet her specifications.  Material and buttons were purchased that would complete the garment.

After receiving the material and pre-washing it for her, I proceeded with the request.  As a result, Ami was quite pleased with the final product and was able to use it for her first session of her day. 

Details of work:  Finished topstitched seams to provide a professional look, 6 1/2" side openings to provide easy mobility, set of 6 pockets for crystal placement, and six button closure.

I look forward to completing her next vest along with a few more items that she has requested to compliment the services she provides in the naturapathic setting.

Re-fashioned Harley Davidson Overalls to Jeans

Taking the opportunity to refashion overalls brought my was a delight.

This particular customer decided that it was time to rid her wardrobe of her favorite pair of overalls.  In doing so, she made the decision the create jeans so that she could continue to wear them. 

It was clear that the pants still fit her well, so there was no need to alter the waist.  In removing the bib I was able to create a fun pair of jeans that she will be able to continue to enjoy.

Nothing better than meeting the goals on my clients.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura

Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

http://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties

Reupholstering & Drapes

I don't normally take on upholstery projects, such as recovering a couch.  Most of my home decor work consists of cushion recovering, pillow work, curtains & drapes.  Yet, as I was trying to see how I could make my workspace more pleasant for me to work in as well as my clients who arrive for fittings, I kept my eye open for a couch that would fit within the space we had.

In doing so, a friend provided us a love seat that needed some TLC, that both my husband and I decided would be worth the time and investment.  We were correct.

Spending time with my husband on a sewing project proved to be something that we both found to be rewarding.  Please keep in mind, that my husband did all the staple & pin removing, repaired all frame issues while utilizing his woodworking skills, re-stuffed the frame where needed, then added the selected fabric to the frame.

My sewing skills recovered the cushions& create the couch skirts for David to add to the finished frame.  I recovered a set of pillows that went with a chair we have now decided needs to be reupholstered as well.

The curtains that were made, are simple drapes made of a suede upholstery fabric.

Friends have asked if upholstery will be added to my services.  Personally, I will continue to recover cushions & pillows for customers as well as create curtains and drapes.  I will take on the small projects, such as ottoman's & stools.  But, I am not personally interested in large upholstery work, but I would open my schedule and work with my husband if he decides this is something he is interested in pursuing. 

Currently we have a chair that is now ready for his skills as well as a couch he is contemplating on working on for some friends.  Time will tell if this is something that will become a side job for him.

Would I do this again?  Spending time with my husband, working on something that requires patience, and attention to detail?  I most certainly would.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/
http://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties

Purchasing Quality Garments

Today, with the economy the way it is, it is even more important for people to spend their hard-earned money more wisely. Coupons, sales, clearance racks and more provide the quick/fix satisfaction of saying one has saved on their clothing budget. It also helps to take advantage of these savings when you know you will have to spend more resources to have your clothing altered due to your physical stature and unique fitting needs.


Those that know me know my frugal and conservative nature. It's not about being cheap, but making sure the money spent will be used wisely. There are many ways in which one can acquire quality garments at affordable prices yet when you shop be cautious of how manufacturers are able to provide you those low prices.

Many of us shop at the department stores for casual wear. There is nothing wrong with finding good deals that fit within your budget at these stores. But there are many things to take into consideration before grabbing those $5 deals.

Things to be cautious about:

Fabrics are thinner, resulting in the need to wear multiple layers. The style to wear two layer tank tops, or two t-shirts, etc. was not so manufacturers could "cheapen" their fabrics, but rather a fun style to enjoy. I noticed this at a store I really enjoyed shopping at in the past, as I was shopping for my daughter at Christmas time. I found a fun T-shirt that both my husband and I spotted five racks into the store. We walked over to it, and when I picked it up, I could see the light through the other side. The only reason I purchased it, was that I decided I would be getting her new tank tops as well, and would put one with this particular shirt, plus it was marked down substantially.

Another area that manufacturer's are saving money are in the manufacturing of jeans. Take a look at your belt loops. Are your belts curling on you? It could be the result of two missing belt-loops on the back. What manufacturers are doing, is instead of providing 7 - 9 beltloops, they have decreased them to five. Those who are thin probably won't even notice this, but many will once their belts start to curl on them. I am finding that I am adding belt loops to men’s jeans lately due to this problem. They used to provide two on each side in the front near the zipper and now there is only one on each side. And, there used to be two in the back between the side loops and center loop. Instead, the back still has it's center loop, but the side ones are moved back slightly past the side seams.

A quality garment will have all the grain going one way. If the vertical grain is not going straight up and down, then you will end up with an item that not look well after the first washing. The cross-grain should run horizontal to the vertical grain.

A quality garment will have more buttons and are securely sewn on. And many of the quality garments have an extra 1-2 buttons "just in case". They used to be sewn to the inside of garments, which they no longer do. If you have to bring things to your seamstress to be altered, ask him/her if they would stitch the extra button(s) to the inside of the garment in the event you need them in the future.

Make sure you try the new blouse on. You want to make sure that buttons close at the appropriate places, versus open things up for the world to see.

Quality garments will also use metal or high quality plastic zippers (some quality plastic zippers used in clothing are sold at places such as Lands End, LL Bean, etc.). Take the time to move the zipper up and down a few times to make sure it is in working order and not getting caught in the garment fabric. Also, check the stitching where the zipper is. I recently had to reinforce the stitching on a gown that still had its tags on it. My client only tried it on two times, and I was taking it in, so it was obvious it was a manufacturing defect.

Check your seams...are they sewn straight? Are they secure? You can check the seams by gently tugging on the garment to see if it is securely sewn together. You will know if it is not, as it will pull apart too much.

Do you enjoy wearing plaids and stripes? Make sure they line up at the seams. A little off, most people will not even notice, but there are cases where the plaids are obviously not matched correctly. Some might find that I'm being a little particular here. That's okay. If you are comfortable with the plaids and stripes not really lining up, I won't pick on you.

Sometimes hemlines on pants are not the same length. This is okay when you have one leg shorter than the other does (yes, I have customers where I have to alter one pant leg due to this problem), but it's not okay when you are purchasing a new pair of pants. Take the pants and fold in half and check to see if the hems match up? Great! If not, put them back on the rack and look for another pair. NOTE: When purchasing 2nd hand at thrift stores, make sure you try them on. People get their clothing altered, and sometimes the size on the garment is not necessarily the size you wear.

With skirts, jackets, blouses, and other items, do the same. Fold the garment in half to make sure the sides are symmetrical.

Time for the "Scrunch test". Take the fabric and scrunch it in your hands. Does it fall back and continue to hold its shape well? Great! Does it leave heavy wrinkles? How much do you enjoy ironing? If it wrinkles a lot or feels flimsy, you might not consider it worth purchasing. Fabrics such as wool should bounce quickly back, which would indicate its resistance to wrinkling.

Trims and beading you will want to check in a variety of areas on the garment to make sure they are securely in place. One loose thread could mean there are a variety of loose threads.

Patch pockets should lie firmly against the garment and not fall away leaving a gap between the garment and pocket fabric.

With linings you will want to make sure that they don't hang lower then the hem of the garment (pant, skirt, sleeves and jacket hems).

The goal in shopping wisely is to have longer lasting garments as well as keep alterations to a minimum. Yes, many will still need to have their clothing altered, but a poorly made item with inferior fabric is not worth the cost.

Alteration tips: Pre-wash all garments before you bring them to your seamstress/tailor to remove all shrinkage. 100% cottons could stand to use two washings (two times through the dryer as well) to make sure the shrinkage is completely out.

Also, some seamstress will charge for pre-washing or washing smoke-filled garments, or possibly refuse to do the work for you.

As you shop, consider purchasing classic styles that never go out of style. These items will last a long time if well made and taken care of. With a watchful eye, you can find great buys!

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~
Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/