Today's inquiries - Decisions in Gown Alterations

Yesterday I received a few different requests to alter gowns for upcoming proms and weddings.  I find it to be an interesting contrast of values when it comes to hiring a seamstress.

My first client was a mom whos daughter came to me last year needing overnight work done because the seamstress she originally hired decided she couldn't work on the dress because she was inexperienced in the sequin type work.  I remember the day she called panicked and frustrated with a seamstress who didn't call until the very last minute sharing she could not complete the job.

Yesterday her mom called, sharing how I was able to turn her negative experience of working with a seamstress into a positive one.  At a young age her daughter discovered the need to be pro-active in her search for someone she can trust.  This young client, knowing that alterations were a probable possibility for this years prom, decided to ask a friend about the dress she wore last year.  Her friend was happy to sell her gown, providing my client an expensive dress at the fraction of the cost.  In doing so, she saved resources so that the cost of alteration work would fit comfortably into her budget.  Fortunately, the other benefit of purchasing this gown from a friend similar in size could possibly result in less costly alteration work.

My 2nd request came from a woman who is new in the area, yet is in an upcoming, elegant wedding as a bridesmaid, asking what the cost and turn-around time would be.  In sharing with her that I don't provide estimates over the phone, but that my average bridesmaid/prom style dresses with minimal layers run between $150 - $200, also noting that some are less with very few alteration needs, while others needing extensive work cost more.  Right now my turn-around is approximately 3 weeks on bridesmaids, yet as my rack fills up, this will be extended.  After sharing the basic information, she booked with the understanding of my inability to provide an exact estimate over the phone and acceptance of my turn-around schedule.

Both are examples of customers who desire their gowns to fit well for both of their occasions, and although price will always be a factor for all consumers, these clients were  first looking for quality service.  My first client, knowing how quickly my schedule fills for the prom season, already satisfied with previous work I did for them, called soon in the season to avoid rush fees for waiting until the last minute, while also booking for both her daughters.  My 2nd customer was looking for a basic idea of what costs could be and a turn-around time.  Yet both understood the value of my time, for the work they wanted, in order to make their gowns fit them well.

My final call was from someone who has never needed someone to alter her gowns or clothing.  She found her dream wedding dress on Ebay for $50.00.  Personally, I think it's a great deal even if reasonable alterations are needed.  The only downside was that it came in too small for her with the request that I add small pieces of fabric to expand the sides.  Unfortunately, providing gussets into a gown can sometimes be a tedious and costly chore, as it requires lining fabric as well as matching gown fabric, along with determining how to apply them to fit the style of the garment as well as create a proper fit.  It is something I have done in the past, but is usually quite costly.  Not something I recommend unless there are no other options.

Sight unseen, if the client was really set on this gown, would require a paid consult of her taking the time to visit so we could discuss the options available.  The decision:  Since she only spent $50 on the dress, the cost for the consult along with alterations would cost more than she paid for the dress.  She decided she would rather buy a new gown.

The positive side of her decision is that she could probably find another dress that would fit her better, with less alteration work.  The down side is that her larger size will limit what she will be able to find off the rack, with only a month before her wedding.  If she is able to find a dress that will reasonably fit, she will still incur the cost of alterations, which can sometimes still cost more than the cost of a dress (most especially if found on sale) along with rush fees.  I hope she is blessed in finding a dress that fits her perfectly.

What I have discovered is that those who have never had the need for a seamstress for alteration or custom sewing services, find the cost to be a little overwhelming.  Some gowns need minimal work, so the cost comes under the norm.  Yet, sight unseen, I will let people know the averages of gowns I have worked on over the past year.  Excessive alterations and custom work will always increase the cost, many times matching the cost of the gown or more.  If their gown was purchased on sale, or clearance, they forget that a seamstress cannot provide their services to match the cost of their dress, most especially a $50-$100 gown, unless the alteration is mild.

My goal in sharing this information is to educate.  Seamstresses who run a business, even if done at home, are looking to provide you a quality service that you will be pleased with.  Quality service comes with experience and the ability to take the necessary time to evaluate your needs, listen to your goals, and take the time to properly evaluate the construction to determine the time involved in make those necessary alterations and/or added custom services.

Don't call a seamstress expecting to pay $25 - $50 for gown alterations.  The same holds true for hems on pants, jeans and slacks....long gone are the days when jean hems cost $5.00.  There's more to alteration work then putting the item on the machine and stitching in place.

Almost like going to the mechanic for your car inspection.  Sometimes the minor repair you want to have done is not so minor.  Until they see your car up on the lift, they will not be able to definitively share what your estimate of labor and parts will be.  The same holds true to your garment alteration and custom sewing needs.

Laura

Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

Deciding when to alter a garment - educating the customer

Men slacks with shorten cuffed hem

Jean hem shorten to look like original

Throughout the course of a day or week, I receive a variety of phone calls from clients looking to have a variety of alteration work done.  It ranges from a simple hem to replacing thick leather jacket type zippers, among the many other type of inquiries.

Unfortunately I cannot possibly know for certain what each item will cost until I see the garment/item.  But, for those who are ready to run over with the basket of clothing or a pair of jeans they just received at an incredible deal, I share with them that my hems range starting around $20.  For some this is too much.  But, what it does do is allow them to take a look at what they have and decide if the cost outweighs the value of their garment/item.

This provides me the opportunity to educate my potential client.  Using jeans as my example; depending on how much of a hem change needs to be made on the jeans, depends on how much time is involved.  It's not always about cutting and hemming, but rather removing the secure jean type stitching, measuring and remeasuring to make sure I am placing the hem where the client has chosen for the length they chose to wear them at.

There is more to a hem than sitting at a machine and stitching.  These are the steps for pant hems (not including overhead costs):

1. meet with the client  - sometimes they have already pinned the garment and other times I need to spend 15 min fitting to the shoe height they desire to wear their pants with.
2. determine if the hem can be cut off, or stitches need to be removed
3. if applicable, remove the old stitching
4. cut the excess off
5. refold, add bias tape, etc...whatever is needed to prepare for the new hem
6. either machine stitch, jean stitch, blind stitch or hand stitch in place.
7. put thread into machine and replace needle to make sure there are no burrs to snag material from over-use of a previous order (or thread a needle if hand stitching)
8. press the hem
9. double check to make sure the length is accurate
10. create their invoice, email (sometimes followed up with a phone call) and schedule a meeting for them to try on and pick up their garment(s)
11. hang garment(s) and clean up to prepare for next sewing or alteration job.

Not everyone is willing to value the work that goes into making their garment fit them well, as they look at the cost they paid and subconsiously have decided what they are willing to pay.  Yet some will take the time and rationalize that "well, I paid $120 for these dress slacks, I want them done well", or "I got a great deal, it is worth the extra that I saved to get the length I need", etc.  While others will not take the time to understand that my time is invested on their behalf so that they look great!  People work hard for their earnings and there's nothing more discouraging when, no matter how much or little, realize that their awesome deal will cost them more than a few dollars to fit well.

My goal as a seamstress, whether creating from materials and patterns, heirlooms from a wedding gown, applying military patches or even the basics of hemming jeans and replacing zippers, is to provide a quality service that makes the customer leave knowing that I care about how they look or feel about their final product. 

I want my customers to feel good about the value of service they are receiving from my seamstress skills.

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Re-fashioned Harley Davidson Overalls to Jeans

Taking the opportunity to refashion overalls brought my was a delight.

This particular customer decided that it was time to rid her wardrobe of her favorite pair of overalls.  In doing so, she made the decision the create jeans so that she could continue to wear them. 

It was clear that the pants still fit her well, so there was no need to alter the waist.  In removing the bib I was able to create a fun pair of jeans that she will be able to continue to enjoy.

Nothing better than meeting the goals on my clients.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura

Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

http://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties

Reupholstering & Drapes

I don't normally take on upholstery projects, such as recovering a couch.  Most of my home decor work consists of cushion recovering, pillow work, curtains & drapes.  Yet, as I was trying to see how I could make my workspace more pleasant for me to work in as well as my clients who arrive for fittings, I kept my eye open for a couch that would fit within the space we had.

In doing so, a friend provided us a love seat that needed some TLC, that both my husband and I decided would be worth the time and investment.  We were correct.

Spending time with my husband on a sewing project proved to be something that we both found to be rewarding.  Please keep in mind, that my husband did all the staple & pin removing, repaired all frame issues while utilizing his woodworking skills, re-stuffed the frame where needed, then added the selected fabric to the frame.

My sewing skills recovered the cushions& create the couch skirts for David to add to the finished frame.  I recovered a set of pillows that went with a chair we have now decided needs to be reupholstered as well.

The curtains that were made, are simple drapes made of a suede upholstery fabric.

Friends have asked if upholstery will be added to my services.  Personally, I will continue to recover cushions & pillows for customers as well as create curtains and drapes.  I will take on the small projects, such as ottoman's & stools.  But, I am not personally interested in large upholstery work, but I would open my schedule and work with my husband if he decides this is something he is interested in pursuing. 

Currently we have a chair that is now ready for his skills as well as a couch he is contemplating on working on for some friends.  Time will tell if this is something that will become a side job for him.

Would I do this again?  Spending time with my husband, working on something that requires patience, and attention to detail?  I most certainly would.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/
http://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties

Purchasing Quality Garments

Today, with the economy the way it is, it is even more important for people to spend their hard-earned money more wisely. Coupons, sales, clearance racks and more provide the quick/fix satisfaction of saying one has saved on their clothing budget. It also helps to take advantage of these savings when you know you will have to spend more resources to have your clothing altered due to your physical stature and unique fitting needs.


Those that know me know my frugal and conservative nature. It's not about being cheap, but making sure the money spent will be used wisely. There are many ways in which one can acquire quality garments at affordable prices yet when you shop be cautious of how manufacturers are able to provide you those low prices.

Many of us shop at the department stores for casual wear. There is nothing wrong with finding good deals that fit within your budget at these stores. But there are many things to take into consideration before grabbing those $5 deals.

Things to be cautious about:

Fabrics are thinner, resulting in the need to wear multiple layers. The style to wear two layer tank tops, or two t-shirts, etc. was not so manufacturers could "cheapen" their fabrics, but rather a fun style to enjoy. I noticed this at a store I really enjoyed shopping at in the past, as I was shopping for my daughter at Christmas time. I found a fun T-shirt that both my husband and I spotted five racks into the store. We walked over to it, and when I picked it up, I could see the light through the other side. The only reason I purchased it, was that I decided I would be getting her new tank tops as well, and would put one with this particular shirt, plus it was marked down substantially.

Another area that manufacturer's are saving money are in the manufacturing of jeans. Take a look at your belt loops. Are your belts curling on you? It could be the result of two missing belt-loops on the back. What manufacturers are doing, is instead of providing 7 - 9 beltloops, they have decreased them to five. Those who are thin probably won't even notice this, but many will once their belts start to curl on them. I am finding that I am adding belt loops to men’s jeans lately due to this problem. They used to provide two on each side in the front near the zipper and now there is only one on each side. And, there used to be two in the back between the side loops and center loop. Instead, the back still has it's center loop, but the side ones are moved back slightly past the side seams.

A quality garment will have all the grain going one way. If the vertical grain is not going straight up and down, then you will end up with an item that not look well after the first washing. The cross-grain should run horizontal to the vertical grain.

A quality garment will have more buttons and are securely sewn on. And many of the quality garments have an extra 1-2 buttons "just in case". They used to be sewn to the inside of garments, which they no longer do. If you have to bring things to your seamstress to be altered, ask him/her if they would stitch the extra button(s) to the inside of the garment in the event you need them in the future.

Make sure you try the new blouse on. You want to make sure that buttons close at the appropriate places, versus open things up for the world to see.

Quality garments will also use metal or high quality plastic zippers (some quality plastic zippers used in clothing are sold at places such as Lands End, LL Bean, etc.). Take the time to move the zipper up and down a few times to make sure it is in working order and not getting caught in the garment fabric. Also, check the stitching where the zipper is. I recently had to reinforce the stitching on a gown that still had its tags on it. My client only tried it on two times, and I was taking it in, so it was obvious it was a manufacturing defect.

Check your seams...are they sewn straight? Are they secure? You can check the seams by gently tugging on the garment to see if it is securely sewn together. You will know if it is not, as it will pull apart too much.

Do you enjoy wearing plaids and stripes? Make sure they line up at the seams. A little off, most people will not even notice, but there are cases where the plaids are obviously not matched correctly. Some might find that I'm being a little particular here. That's okay. If you are comfortable with the plaids and stripes not really lining up, I won't pick on you.

Sometimes hemlines on pants are not the same length. This is okay when you have one leg shorter than the other does (yes, I have customers where I have to alter one pant leg due to this problem), but it's not okay when you are purchasing a new pair of pants. Take the pants and fold in half and check to see if the hems match up? Great! If not, put them back on the rack and look for another pair. NOTE: When purchasing 2nd hand at thrift stores, make sure you try them on. People get their clothing altered, and sometimes the size on the garment is not necessarily the size you wear.

With skirts, jackets, blouses, and other items, do the same. Fold the garment in half to make sure the sides are symmetrical.

Time for the "Scrunch test". Take the fabric and scrunch it in your hands. Does it fall back and continue to hold its shape well? Great! Does it leave heavy wrinkles? How much do you enjoy ironing? If it wrinkles a lot or feels flimsy, you might not consider it worth purchasing. Fabrics such as wool should bounce quickly back, which would indicate its resistance to wrinkling.

Trims and beading you will want to check in a variety of areas on the garment to make sure they are securely in place. One loose thread could mean there are a variety of loose threads.

Patch pockets should lie firmly against the garment and not fall away leaving a gap between the garment and pocket fabric.

With linings you will want to make sure that they don't hang lower then the hem of the garment (pant, skirt, sleeves and jacket hems).

The goal in shopping wisely is to have longer lasting garments as well as keep alterations to a minimum. Yes, many will still need to have their clothing altered, but a poorly made item with inferior fabric is not worth the cost.

Alteration tips: Pre-wash all garments before you bring them to your seamstress/tailor to remove all shrinkage. 100% cottons could stand to use two washings (two times through the dryer as well) to make sure the shrinkage is completely out.

Also, some seamstress will charge for pre-washing or washing smoke-filled garments, or possibly refuse to do the work for you.

As you shop, consider purchasing classic styles that never go out of style. These items will last a long time if well made and taken care of. With a watchful eye, you can find great buys!

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~
Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

What Bridal Fashion Fits You Best?

With so many engagements that have occurred since Christmas, New Year's and Valentine's Day, there are many searching the bridal stores for the "Perfect Dress".  Dresses look beautiful on the models with the sleek bodies that are shown in the magazines and other advertising venues, yet when we try the style on, we just don't seem to feel beautiful in it.

So, let's try to narrow down what might be the best look for you and your figure.

The Lovely Ball Gown, a style that has a fitted bodice, yet flairs out in a very full and bell shape.  A couple figure styles that look great in this style gown are the ladies who are slim, as well as the ladies who have a pear shape figure.
This is a beautiful style dress that is perfect for the fairy tale wedding.  Different necklines and with or without sleeves.  The skirt can be made with a variety of styles: draping layers of fine silk or chiffon to create an elegant look, covered in lace and beads, plain silk or satin, and many other fabric options.  The skirt will be supported with multiple layers of tulle & taffetta or might need a crinoline skirt to maintain it's fullness.
The A-line dress, also known as the Princess dress, has a nicely fitted bodice that fits well to one's rib-cage, yet flares gracefully along the rest of the body.  The nice part of this style dress is that it elongates one's body.  The A-line style dress fits most body types.  You can also get this style with a fuller flair.  It is a beautiful style for any type wedding.
The Princess style will have obvious elongated lines, from the neckline to hem, slenderizing the figure.  The A-Line will use a variety of fabrics creating a different look depending on the choice fabric.

The Sheath also known as the Column, is a very comfortable dress that will closely fit and follow the curves of your shape.  This is a lovely style with one who has a slender figure and those with an hour glass shape.  It's a lovely dress, it can be used with a variety of necklines and skirt lengths.  This is a great style for thin and well proportioned women.  Both tall and short women can wear this dress, and actually provide a sense of height for shorter women.
The benefit of this dress, is that many different fabrics can be used to provide different looks.  A great dress for any type of wedding...formal and informal.  A very modest style if worn with sleeves.

The Empire waist dress has a narrow bodice where the skirt portion starts just under the bustline.  If made with the lovely flowing polyester, chiffon fabrics, it is a beautiful option for thicker waistlines and pear shape hips.  This style looks lovely on many figures, although it is not a good design for the well endowed woman.  If you want to show off your hour glass figure, this would not be recommended.  With shoulder straps and with sleeves, this dress is a very elegant yet modest fashion.
This dress can be made with a couple layers, and depending on the fabrics chosen can change the look drastically.

The Mermaid style is a figure forming style that hugs the body which flairs out from the knees, or slightly above, to the floor.  This is designed looks lovely on a tall, slender figure with curves that desires to show off her figure.  Worn well by a woman with confidence.
Light fabrics will gently hug your figure, yet the heavy satins will hug your figure and accentuate any flaws you might have.
This style might have one of three style flairs: 1. The round flair will provide volume at the base of the dress.  2. The trumpet flair will provide volume behind the dress. 3. The Spanish flair, a flamenco look, will gather slightly in front and around the dress in layers.

I caution one to not go for the dress that will accentuate the flaws you find uncomfortable to share.  You want to feel beautiful, and when selecting dresses for your bridal party, remember their figures as you select their style.  Remember, you can always get different dresses in the same color.

So, consider your figure, browse the many bridal magazines, and select all that you like.  And remember, you might not be able to find or afford the dress you desire from a book, but you might not look well in them either.  BUT, you can make any change you want to your dress that you desire. 

You can also refashion a dress you are given, find second hand, on clearance, etc. to the look you desire.  Remember, this is YOUR special day.  My goal when I work with brides, as I alter, create bustles or refashion their dress, is to make their dress look the way that they want it to look.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

Serving Those Who Serve Our Country

As part of my business of serving others through my sewing skills I am asked to frequently alter and place service patches for many service men and women.  This is an amazing group of people who depend on me to provide a service that is exact. 

Some are new and others have been serving our country for many years.  But what they all have in common is a great deal of pride and dedication to their service to our country.  They show respect to their uniform as they bring it to me for their specific alteration need.  They have an expectation that when they leave their uniform in my hands, that it will be done well and to the specifications of their branch of service.

In return, I find that I am honored to serve these men and women who risk their lives to protect me.  I find that I am more aware of my work as I measure and re-measure the placement of their service bars and stripes, before actually securing them to their uniforms.  I find that I have an additional element of pride as I serve them.

When they arrive for pick-up, they inspect their uniform, as it represents who they are and what they stand for.  My hope is that they leave totally satisfied in my work, knowing that they can wear their uniform with the pride that they carry within them. 

To those who serve our country, thank you for allowing me the priviledge of serving you with my sewing skills.  It is a honor to serve you in this capacity.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Custom Seamstress
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

A Delighted Bride and Mom

One of the many joys I am blessed with, is when a bride requests something unique for her dress.  Most often my job will be to take in the bodice or the waist along with the hem.  Sometimes I will be asked to add some trim, remove a flower and reshape the shirt, or simply remove the sleeves.  But my most recent job was different than most, yet provided the most fullfillment  It was taking something old and creating something new for the bride.

The bride's mother saved her own wedding dress, in hopes that one day her daughter would wear it at her own wedding.  What a joy it must have been when her daughter said she wanted to wear it.  The only thing that would be different would be that she wanted her dress to be restyled to a more modern look.

Those of us who got married in the last 70's through early 80's remember the high collars and puffy sleeves, and other Gunne sax style dresses.  The dress that was to be restyled had the high collar that zipped up in the back, which the bride decided needed a little updating.  The bride provided a picture from a bridal magazine, sharing what she wanted her dress to look like.  To provide this look, I removed the collar and netting that was on the neck, shorten the zipper creating a "V" shape in the back, and reapply the original lace that was on the original dress.  Both the bride and myself were excited to see that would could use all that was on the original dress without having to use anything new.

The work was tedious, yet such a delight.  I love to create unique items, including refashioning any garment of clothing when I have the opportunity.  The easiest part of my job was to understand my clients desire, which she was able to clearly communicate  her wish.  She knew what she wanted, had a picture to help share her idea's, and I was able to move forward with her request.

The dress is now complete.  The bride arrived with her mom today for the final fitting.  And the most full-filling part of my job was when the bride smiled and shared how happy she was, along with her mom sharing that I did "magic" to her dress.

There is nothing more satisfying than a job well done, where the client leaves with a huge smile of delight.

Enjoy the after pictures!

To Be a Seamstress

Being a seamstress allows me to use needle and thread to alter, repair, create and tailor custom and ready made clothing, as well as create a variety of other items from doll clothing, infant blankets, specialty clothing on through to include home decor type items.  There are many titles and definitions that describe the work that I do, from seamstress, dressmaker, crafter, and tailor. 

Custom dressmaking and tailoring is when one creates clothing to meet the specific requests of their customers.  This can be done using existing patterns as they are designed or altered to meet the customer's preference of style and fit, as well as creating custom patterns specific to the customer's measurements.  The custom pattern making I provide is generally on the small scale, creating patterns for dolls as I replicate fashions as requested by clients, as well as young infant clothing.  For adults, I often use ready made patterns and alter then to meet my clients request.  Occasionally, I will create a custom pattern for adults, but it is not a frequent need.

Part of  a seamstress job is to help educate customers in fabric selection for their style selection.  At times, when a customer requests it, I will spend the time shopping with them to get the fabric that is best for their style preference.  Depending on the style of their dress, it is important for me to share with them how one fabric would work better than another for their style selection.

With dressmaking and tailoring one needs to measure and fit through to the completion of the garment.  Depending on the garment, this could take from two to six fittings.  A bridal or other formal dress will take up to six fittings, where a man's vest could take two with a final fitting upon completion.

Tailoring also incorporates altering ready made garments to better fit my clients.  The most common request is for pant hems, but I frequently fit jackets, take in waistlines on slacks, jacket lining replacement and more.  In some cases, a customer will request that I add inside pockets to their jackets, change a collar, restyle or refashion a specific dress, etc.  Tailoring is about creating a look and fit that makes my customer comfortable, from the young child in dance or a recital, the office professional, to the bride and her bridal party. 

Alterations and mending services allow customers the freedom to bring along a basket or pile of mending they don't have time to conquer, as well as an individual item that needs a hem, zipper replacement, seam repair and more.  This could also incorporate mending or altering bridal and formal wear.  In addition, it not only relates to clothing, but also to the other sewing needs a client might have. 

The goal of my seamstress work is to provide a quality, finished product, using my skills, in order to give my customer what they would otherwise not be able to do themselves, or find elsewhere.  Sewing is not only a "job" but  an enjoyable career where I meet interesting people, where others are able to enjoy the gift of my sewing skills.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - Custom Seamstress

Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

You can also find me on Twitter and Facebook

Something old, something new, something unique just for you

It was a pleasure to be interviewed by a local reporter to be included in this years 2010 Bridal Guide, provided through our local paper, the Concord Monitor.

Although my sewing services are varied from meeting the needs of many, from infants through adult as well as your home, this particular article focused on my services that I provide to the bride who wants to wear her mom or grandmother's dress, or use their own dress for something special after the wedding.

From refashioning an old dress or one you find on sale that you want to make more "you" to Christening gowns, wraps and more.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - Custom Seamstress
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

Here is the article, written by By Victoria Shouldis/For the Monitor January 19, 2010:
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Get the perfect fit out of an heirloom gown

Here’s the problem. You’ve got your mom’s wedding gown or your grandma-on-your-father’s-side wedding gown and you’re planning on getting married. Naturally, you’d like to make use of that heirloom gown.

But there’s a problem. Or two. It turns out you and grandma had different body types. Or you know, you love the gown, but not necessarily on you. Or you love elements of the gown, but not the whole package. Or maybe the gown hasn’t been preserved exactly correctly, so that a lovely dress that was once a pure white is now something of tinged-yellow.

What can you do? Do you have to toss the heirloom dress and buy something brand new, perhaps beautiful but lacking in the character that comes with history and family stories? No! You can visit a talented seamstress instead.

Laura Field is a local, talented seamstress. She has been running her Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties shop out of her home in Concord for nearly a decade, specializing in everything from new gowns to alterations to exquisite clothes for dolls.

The good news? Field has some solutions for that old family gown.

The bad news is that a gown, in general, only has so much give, so an alteration to make, say a size 4 dress into a size 6 is possible but beyond that is unlikely. (Making gowns smaller is a bit easier, but again, with major size alterations come changes in proportion and appearance of the dress, so there are limits there, too.) Field also notes that you can’t just go by label sizes.

“What is called a size 10 today might have been labeled a size 14 20 years ago,” Field said. So you have to go by actual measurements and not just label sizes.

So a gown can be let out a size or so; Field can also substantially alter that old family gown, to, say, remove some of those flourishes that the modern bride doesn’t care for, or the more restrictive designs that were all the rage in eras past.

“Often times brides have me change things like those lace, high-neck collars,” said Field. “Many people don’t like those.”

Okay. But what if that beautiful, family heirloom wedding gown just isn’t going to make that transformation into your wedding gown? How can that treasure still be a part of the ceremony or other family tradition? Field has a proverbial wedding chest full of solutions.

“Christening gowns. This is a very common use for family gowns – I take the family gown and turn it into a beautiful gown for a baby’s christening,” said Field. “And then that gown, in its new form as a christening gown, can be passed down to other generations as a christening gown.”

Field said gowns can be transformed into non-wedding wear: suits for the bride or even bridal bags or gifts for the bridesmaids.

Field also has tons of ideas for incorporating that old gown into something, well, new, for the wedding ceremony itself. The gown can be turned into tiny pillows for the ring bearers to use. The gown can be incorporated into a new gown’s veil. Or it can even be transformed into a shawl, designed to wrap one both in soft comfort and family history.

Drawing from her own specialization in doll clothing, Field also suggested a very non-traditional way of preserving and honoring, say, grandma’s old gown: doll replicas.

“Some people might want to do this especially to honor a couple in the family who’ve been married for a long, long time: we can take the wedding gown and turn it into a replica of itself on a small doll,” said Field. “Then that treasure can be kept and passed down as a memory in a curio cabinet.”

With many of Field’s ideas, the seamless (pardon the pun) transition of old gown into the new gown is one that will not be readily apparent to the eye. But families will share their stories – as families do – and soon, everyone at the ceremony will know, say, that that veil contains a piece of grandma’s wedding gown, or that that gown the first grandchild was christened in was once the gown that great Aunt Cordelia was married in.

“What’s great about incorporating the old into the new is that you satisfy that old, traditional bride’s creed: something old, something new, something borrowed,” said Field, who is busily wrapping up work on her daughter’s wedding gown. (She’s also bringing food and being asked to play flute at the ceremony.) “We don’t quite have the something blue part, though.”

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Wedding Alterations

A wedding is to be such a special time in a brides life. With so much planning, one would only hope that the Bride would not only enjoy the preparation, but also her special day. So often the bride has so much to do, that the stress builds up.

There is so much joy when I can work with a bride, creating for her the final look for her wedding gown. In some cases it begins with my making her dress, but most often it comes from altering it to her specific needs. My goal, for every bride that comes my way, is to make the adjustments that she would like to her specifications. Sometimes it is just a hem, other times it might just be creating a bustle, and there are times where there are many adjustments that need to be made.

Since alterations are an added expense, I share with the bride that what is most important is to have the proper undergarments she plans on wearing with her when she comes for her first fitting. This is extremely important when deciding how much something may need to be taken in. The proper undergarment will not show when you wear your dress and will make your dress look seamless and you feel beautiful.

There are times when a dress doesn't need a special undergarment. One bride came my way, wanting me to take her dress out because it seemed too tight. After looking at the dress and seeing that it already had all the support the dress needed, I asked her to take off the undergarment and put the dress on without it. When I returned to the room, she was smiling ear-to-ear, seeing how that one simple change made her dress fit her to perfection. She was sold an item that was unnecessary when they sold her the dress. This is an unfortunate thing that happens to brides, because in some cases the undergarment is needed, yet in some cases it is not. This was a rush order request that ended up being a simple consult, saving the bride rush fees in addition to the alteration costs that she originally wanted, plus, she was able to return the undergarment since it still had the tags on it. She and her fiancé was extremely happy realizing how much money I had saved them.

The other important item to have with her is her shoes. Sometimes a bride has still not found that perfect pair, so I recommend that she bring a pair of shoes, in the height that she plans on wearing. This helps in making sure we get the right hem length if I'm hemming, but also if we are adding a bustle, it is important to have the right floor length. Depending upon the number of alterations that might be needed and their budget, some brides will purchase heels to accommodate the length of the dress. My only caution here would be "comfort".

One way some brides save and bring someone old into their wedding, is to take their mother's or grandmother's dress and have it refashioned for themselves. If they can wear the dress, but want a few things tweaked to make it their own and more modern, it is an option that only embraces the alteration costs.

There are so many options available to a bride. My job is to listen to what the bride desires and make the necessary adjustments to make her feel beautiful on her special day.

Here's the brides: May your day be yours, the way you desire, to love and to cherish, your man of the hour.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - Custom Seamstress
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

For the love of my daughter

There is something special about being asked to make a custom dress for one's wedding, but when your daughter asks, there is something even more endearing that reaches deeper into my heart.

Our oldest daughter had been planning her wedding long before she met her husband, by selecting patterns, fabrics, and more.  The best part of her planning, was that she easily found her fabrics before the local stores stopped carrying the elegant bridal fabrics that one now has to purchase online.

Heather's dress was made with a beautiful soft satin underskirt that felt beautiful against her skirt, a cream-on-cream brocade fabric for her main dress, contrasting satin sleeves, with a braided trim around the neckline, bodice and down the front of the opening of the outer skirt.

Her dream was to have a renaissance style dress, with the maid-of-honor and bridesmaids to match, using her favorite color of sage green, which we selected crepes, organza, sparkle organza and satin linings.  All dresses were to be slightly different from each other.

The maid-of-honor (sister) had a dress using a satin lining, sparkle crepe fabric for the main dress, and sparkle organza for the dress overlay and sleeves.  She chose to use spaghetti straps to allow her unnecessary worries.  This dress was designed so that the sleeves could be easily removed for any future formal occasion.

Bridesmaid 1 (sister) had a more modest style A-line dress using sparkle crepe fabric for the main dress, sparkle organza for the sleeves, and silk/satin lining. 

Bridesmaid 2 (cousin) had the same style dress as bridesmaid 1, but a plain crepe fabric was used for the dress, and a plain organza for the sleeve, and a silk/satin lining.

The pattern selected for the bridesmaids, was very different that what is shown, as I created a sleeve pattern to make the sleeve edges to be similar to the maid-of-honor's dress.

It was a privilege to make my daughter's wedding dress, where she felt like a princess, in addition to the other bridal party dresses.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

Zipper Pulls vs. Zipper Replacement

Zipper Replacements - Many times a client has an old favorite jacket or coat that they need to replace the zipper in. Often, the full zipper needs to be replaced, but in some cases, all I need to do is replace the zipper pull for them.

I will always provide the quote for the full zipper replacement, but I will also let them know that if I can just replace the pull, I will do that and save them quite a bit. It's rare a client will argue, most especially in these economic times.

In some cases a client has a plastic type zipper, and although these zippers are much better today than in years past, some clients are most comfortable with a metal zipper replacement, which I will do for them.

Not all plastic zipper pulls can be replaced. But, in some cases, I can replace them, but your zipper might be a metal replacement. Your top stop will be a metal stop vs. the plastic that originally is with your coat.

When a client has a coat that might have cost them over $350 when they first purchased it 7 years prior, as in the case of the jacket shown, it is hard for them to find a replacement coat with the same characteristics that they have grown to enjoy. This is when, what seems to be a costly repair to some, some will find the zipper replacement, repair and lining replacements, actually turn out to be the most economical approach.

This service, of zipper replacement/repairs is provided mostly for local customers, but it is also provided for my internet clients that are willing to ship and pay return shipping costs for their repair needs.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - seamstress
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

Thankfulness

There is so much to be thankful for.

We all face trials in our lives, challenges that make us want to give up at times, yet we also face opportunities to make choices that can make a difference.

I have been blessed with a husband who has been my best friend for over 30 years. Married for over 29 years and a friendship that started a few years prior. In addition I have three daughters who will always be a sweet treasure that I am so very grateful for.

Nine years ago my business started as something to do part-time to help support the family while I stayed home to care for and homeschool our daughters.

It was a challenging decision to stay home, homeschool and start my business, but it proved to be well worth it. There were many looking for what I had to offer, not only locally but also internationally.

This past spring I made the decision, with the full support of my husband, to take my business from the part-time level to full-time. It was a decision that I do not regret and find that the Lord has blessed.

I not only create doll clothing, as I did when I first started in 2000, but I also enjoy making the infant/toddler blankets, therapy bags, Christmas stockings, fleece wraps, and more for my web-site. In addition, I have been blessed to take care of other's needs, outside our family, with their alteration, mending, and custom sewing needs.

For some, it might seem like a tedious chore. For me, it's a gift of serving others.

May you encounter joy during this time where our nation celebrates Thanksgiving. May you find joy in your ability to serve others in the work that you do.
And thank you to the many men and women who serve our country, out of a personal desire to serve and protect.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - seamstress

Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/
Twitter http://twitter.com/DavinaDawnSewin
Facebook http://bit.ly/3MNj8o

Replacing you Coat Lining

Replacing your Coat Lining

It is important to be sure when you decide to replace your coat lining, that you are getting a quality job done.

It is common for one to purchase a quality coat that later on needs the lining replaced. The outer shell is in great condition, but due to the consistent wear'n tear, the lining begins to thin.

You can price around to see who is the cheapest and go that route, but make sure you are getting not only quality workmanship, but also a quality lining fabric that will last more than one or two seasons.

There are many variables that go into replacing a coat lining. The cost to replace your lining might cause sticker shock, because in some cases it will seem as if you are re-purchasing your coat new again. What you are paying for is the time involved in taking out your old lining, replacing shoulder pads, creating new pattern pieces from old, worn and stretched out pieces that are being removed, etc. Then, the time involved in adding back in the new lining. This is not something that can be done in a quick hour or two.

When my clients come to me for their coat linings, I discuss with them their expectations. Do they want the inside lapel pocket still (some want to save costs so they remove it)? Do they need any pockets replaced? Do they want something different about your coat lining...some have hems sewn right into the coat, where other's hang loose, and the customer decides to have the new one hang loose. Do they have a kick pleat in the back? Are there other mending needs necessary for their coat? Do they want me to mend things if they are discovered once the replacement begins? Do buttons need to be replaced?

So, as you can see, there is more than just bringing it in and replacing the lining. If you have a coat that you really love, that you can't replace because you can't find that classic look anymore, then you might decide it is well worth the investment. If it was an expensive coat, that is still in great condition, except for the lining, it is well worth the investment. Leather coat owners have found it to be well worth the investment because they have worn their coat to the point where it is a part of them.

Whatever your choice, whether to reline or not, is something you need to decide after you weigh the cost of the work with the value of your coat, whether it can be replaced, or what it means to you.

To have this service done by Laura of Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties is generally done for local customers. But, this service is also provided for customers anywhere within the USA, for those who are willing to ship their coat and pay for return shipment.

Stay warm

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com

To Alter or Not to Alter

One of the things I enjoy providing my local clients are quality alterations. In doing so, I like to make sure they are getting what they want, as well as what they need.

I had the pleasure of meeting a new client today, who was looking for someone that had flexible hours to work around her work schedule, but also someone who would be honest with her. Recently, she lost 30 pounds, but also had some alterations already done to the garments she had. She brought a suit jacket and four pairs of slacks that she felt were not fitting her well. As she tried each item on, the jacket being the first, she realized that the jacket actually fit her quite well. I couldn't see anything that would warrant an alteration as a necessity.

What I thought was going to be a very expensive job for the client and timely one for myself, based on what she shared on the phone, turned out to be a less costly situation.

As she tried each item on, I listened to her and learned that she had started to do more exercises. So, even though she wasn't planning on anymore weight loss, the clothes could continue to change how they looked on her. Yet, with three pairs, I made some adjustments that made an obvious difference in how they would fit.

One of the things I won't do is provide alterations that are not necessary. It is not fair to the client to spend hard earned resources on something that will not make a difference for them. They are depending on me to provide a fit that will allow them to feel good about how they look in their clothes, and in the case of this clients clothing already being altered, whether more alterations can be done. I will educate them where I can, show the suggested changes and let them decide whether it provides them the look they are seeking, prior to them leaving.

My goal, is to help my client feel comfortable and confident when their garment is altered. This is why I take the time needed in the first fitting.

May we all strive to look our best, feel confident in who we are, while living our lives to the fullest.

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com