When to Hem/Alter Your Gown

Prom season is in full swing!!  Beautiful gowns are arriving and now is the season you want to be sure you are allowing plenty of time to have the work done.

This blog post is two-fold:
1. When & where to alter & 2. What to look for when shopping to save on alteration costs

WHEN & WHERE TO ALTER:
1.  Do your best to plan at least 4 weeks for your gown alterations.  During the heavy prom season, if you call within the two to four weeks you could encounter a rush fee.  Personally it is one charge I don't like to have to add to someones' bill, because that means I have to work extra hours that week and it's money that my customer could have been saved.
2.  There are many wonderful seamstresses who can alter your gown.  Be sure you have confidence in the seamstress you have selected.
3.  If you are price shopping, be mindful that no seamstress can provide an "exact" estimate of the work you want them to do until they see the gown and how it fits.  Many clients call and want a quote on a hem, yet without seeing it, knowing the number of layers, type of fabric, bead and/or lace work can make a huge difference in how the work needs to be addressed.  The more experienced seamstress will be able to look at a dress and see the details involved in making the necessary adjustments, from fabric to construction.
4.  And if your goal in price shopping is to find the cheapest rate, all I recommend is to be cautious.  In some cases it will not matter, but in others, it will make a huge difference!!
5.  Sometimes you can get an estimate, but sometimes a client arrives and what they thought they needed, will not "make the dress" fit well.
6.  Do not compare the cost of your dress to the cost of your alterations, while it may cause me to giggle, it will cause you to panic.  If you were given a dress, got it on sale for less than $150, there is a good chance the alterations will cost start around $150 or more.  Unless of course it is a simple fix, based on the seamstress viewpoint.

I was contacted this past week about doing a "simple" hem, "it only needs to be brought up a little bit".  Just because the dress needs to be shorten a 1/2 in or more, it's not about how much needs to be taken up, it depends on the type of fabric and number of layers.  Providing this service takes time, and cannot be compared to what you spent on your gown.

This leads me to share with you, the consumer, on how to shop for your gown, in order to avoid alterations.  Now, please understand, that alterations are a huge part of my business.  I appreciate my loyal and new customers who place their trust in the work I provide for them.  While I enjoy being able to contribute to making a lady feel beautiful in her gown, as well as supporting my family with the wages I earn, I also understand that to have the work done, might not fit within everyone's budget.

TIPS FOR WHEN TRYING TO SAVE ON GOWN ALTERATION COSTS

1.  Wear the bra you plan on wearing...a good bra will make all the difference in the world!!  It can affect your hem length as well.
2.  Wear the heal height you plan on wearing with your gown.  Better than that is to bring your dress shoes with you to try on with your gown.  Most stores will not have a problem with this if you explain what you are doing!  They want to sell you a gown that you will keep!!  If the length is 1" off the floor with your heels, you are golden and no hem work is needed!!
3.  DON'T purchase a gown that is way too big in the bodice!!  If you can hide packages in the bodice, then the cost to adjust this alone could be more than you want to image!!
4.  A gown that is "slightly" too large, can be adjusted for a reasonable cost.
5.  Consider a tea length or knee length gown and be sure to purchase a petite length if you are under 5'5"
6.  If you have to choose between a dress that is too tight vs. too big (by one size) from the rack, take the one that is one size too big!!  Many dresses today do not have sufficient seam allowances to take dresses out.
7.  If you find the dress that you really have your heart set on, and it's too tight, check the seam allowance.  If you place your finger on the seam, from where it is stitched to the edge of the fabric, and you can't see the fabric, it cannot be taken out.  If you insist there is plenty of seam allowance, you will risk having to sign a waiver or the seamstress telling you it can't be done.
8.  Strapless dress & don't enjoy wearing a strapless bra?  Okay...have someone put the bra cups in for you. But, when you try the gown on, wear the bra you would want to wear if it had straps.  That way all you will need are the bra cups.
9.  Beaded and lace covered gowns cost more to alter than plain gowns.  This is going to be a choice though, as I know many young ladies who love the bling!!  It's fun, it sparkles, and makes them feel special.
10.  When selecting a gown filled with beads, look at it closely to be sure it is not losing them when you try the gown on.  Securing and/or re-beading gowns can be costly.
NOTE:   Not quite sure how to secure and/or re-bead?  I have provided clients with a private lesson/consult so they can do that work on their own for the dress they purchased as well as any future gowns they wish to embellish.
11.  Can't seem to find a dress to your liking?  Consider asking a friend of similar size if they might have a gown you can borrow or offer to purchase.  They make a little extra, you save the full cost of a gown and alteration costs.
12.  Last but not least...dance around in your gown.  Does it move nicely on you?  Is it too snug when you wrap your arms around yourself?  Is it too warm to wear during the short time you have it on in the dressing room?  Do you feel comfortable and beautiful in this gown?

My wish for all the young ladies attending prom this year:  Be safe, have fun, respect yourself, and enjoy being treated like a lady!!  Respectful young men enjoy treating a lady well.  And, by the way, it's okay for him to open your door.  My husband still opens mine and I love it!!

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
https://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties
www.davinadawnsewing.com

What can be done to my Wedding Gown???

Can a gown be taken out?  Generally, with today’s off the rack styles, it is rare that there is sufficient seam allowance to do this.  I highly recommend NOT doing this if your gown only has a 5/8” seam.  It is better to find a gown that is slightly too big than to purchase something too small.  NOTE:  Always purchase a size based on your largest measurement!

It is important for clients to understand, that albeit opening up seams and creating a larger garment can be done, it is an expensive alteration request and there is no guarantee the dress will look like the original, as you have are now adding new seam lines.  So, with that in mind, here are a few options for taking your gown out:

• I have added more room to a variety of gowns when the client has provided the same fabric so proper gussets can be added. 

1. Some clients have brought me an identical gown for me to use the material to create the necessary gusset. 
2. Or taking your gown to a quality fabric store or contacting the manufacturer of your gown and acquiring matching fabric
3. Occasionally I will provide the service to search for the fabric.

• Add a Corset - Another option many of my clients have requested is to add a corset in the back.  Corsets allow for slight fluctuations in body size.  This can be expensive as well; depending on what specifically is entailed.  But all my clients that have requested this service have been very pleased with the results.

1. Matching or contrasting fabric needs to be acquired, along with the notions.
2. The tie ribbon & loops can also be created when they can not be found already made.  This happens frequently with so many varied fabric textures and colors

Can you add a Modesty Panel?  Modesty panels are becoming a common request due to the many styles of gowns that have a very low cleavage cut.  Whether wedding or prom, many of the girls want their dads to see them in a more modest style, and others find it to be more flattering while not having to worry if too much is showing.

What type of bustles can be done?  Every dress & client is different.  There are many options to a bustle.  When the client has her dress on, I look at how the dress fits her, how it flows, etc.  Then I discuss with them what they envision their bustle to look as well as how they would like it to function.  If they have an idea in mind, I will pin the bustle to show them how it looks.  If I see another possibility, I will show them that look as well, so that they are able to determine which bustle suits them best.  The goal is to find what is appropriate for the style of the dress as well as the wearer of the gown.

Is there any other option other than a bustle?  Certainly. 

• You can remove the train and create a straight hem for your gown.  This is a great option for the bride who doesn’t want things to be too complicated on her wedding day.  Discuss how this will be achieved with your seamstress, to be sure it is the style you desire.
• Ask your seamstress to create a special wristlet made with fabric from your dress or a soft, matching fabric.  You can request one that is beaded, possibly using beads you provide.  This is a nice option for the moderate trained dress, allowing you to comfortably wear the loop while you dance, or when walking around, yet lets you decide when you want to let the dress hang naturally for pictures.

What other things can I do to my gown?  This is generally done for the one who wants their gown to be unique and different from anyone else who might wear the same dress.

• Add/Remove trim and/or beading
• Add/Remove sleeves
• Add/Remove hem embellishments
• Add/Remove embellishments throughout the dress
• Add heirloom pieces into your gown (“something old”)

The options are endless.  Just discuss what it is you would like to have done with your seamstress.  A good seamstress will be open to your ideas and will discuss the pros/cons of how it will affect the look of your dress or whether it will work with the fabric and style of your dress.  But ultimately, the decision is yours.

Bridal, Prom & Other Formal Wear Alterations – What to Expect & What Will it Cost

Bridal, Prom & Other Formal Wear Alterations – What to Expect & What Will it Cost

By Laura D. Field of Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties

As a seamstress, there is nothing better than seeing a client leave with a smile knowing that you made their garment fit them the way they envisioned it to fit.  It’s a joy to see that the final look is flattering on them as well as makes them feel beautiful.

My services include a large variety of alterations and custom sewing, but this article is about altering the gowns.  The client is either arriving with a gown they spent many hours shopping for, an heirloom gown that was passed down to them, or having to wear a dress that was selected for them (re: bridesmaids).  My goal as a seamstress is to provide a fit that works for the dress and client.  Many times they have an idea of what they want, and as a team, I work with my client to reach their goal.  Sometimes, I might make a few suggestions, and sometimes I will suggest not doing something if the change is not that imperative to the occasion.

Many of my clients are repeat or recommended by my past clients.  But I do get many new clients who, for the first time, need a seamstress to alter their gown.  The first question I often get is “How much will this cost?” along with the added comment that “It just needs a few simple alterations”.  It is so difficult for a seamstress to provide an estimate over the phone without seeing the dress in person, the materials it is made out of, and how the dress is fitting the particular client.  Everyone is shaped different, making the same gown look different on each lady who wears it.  And, what might seem “simple” is actually a little more involved than what one would generally expect.

How to prepare for your fitting and alterations:

• BRING the shoes that you plan on wearing, or at least a pair in the same height you expect to wear.  Change in height equals additional alteration costs
• Wear/Bring your undergarments you plan on wearing.  Every undergarment is different and can add inches.
• Bring along the required cash deposit
• BE ON TIME – If you are late, and/or another client arrives on time, you risk the possibility of your appointment being rescheduled and possibly being charged for lost time.  Time is set aside specifically for you, to discuss what you want done, measure, pin, etc., to be sure I know what you are looking to have done so if can be done efficiently.  Call 24-48 hrs in advance to cancel your appointment.

What can you expect when you arrive for your fitting and alterations: 

• Inspection of your gown to see what type of material I will be working with, how it is made, how it fits you, etc.
• Discussion of what you are looking to have done.  This is your gown.  Since I am not wearing the gown I will need to understand what you specifically want done. 
• I will always explain why I can’t do something you had your heart on, and offer an alternative, or suggest not doing it at all.  But in the end, it is your decision.
• I will suggest what I see needing to be done, but you will never be pressured to use that suggestion.
• You will leave with an estimate of your alteration costs.  This is just an “estimate” and could change depending on finding something I didn’t expect, you making changes, etc.
• You will find that I want you to feel confident in knowing that I’m here to do a quality job for you.  You will be given my contact information so that you can reach me via phone or email for any questions you might have after you leave.

When Should I Book my First Fitting/Consult?

• Brides - at least 6 weeks in advance
• Bridesmaids, Mother of the Bride/Groom - at least 2 weeks in advances unless it is a little more detailed than the average dress
• Flower girls - 2-6 weeks.  These little dresses range from simple to as elegant as the bride.  If it is a simple little dress 2 weeks, otherwise 6 weeks for the dresses that have lots of layers, beads, or any extra "fluff".
• From March through July, add an extra 2 weeks.
• Rush Fees are added to dress alterations where enough lead time is not given.

BUT, How Much Does It Cost??

This is a tough question to answer over the phone.  I don’t know until I see you, your gown, shoes you will be wearing, etc.

So, to help a little, this is what I share with those who are price shopping:

•  Bridesmaids, Mother of the Bride/Groom, Flower Girls, and young ladies donning their Prom gowns, the average gown is $150

• Bridal Gowns have an average of $350

Gowns Are Not All the Same:  I did a prom dress for $50, yet I’ve done prom dresses for $200 and some were $350 (the full, princess style gowns).  I’ve done bridesmaid dresses for less and others more.  It all depends on the dress, the client, and what needs to be done.

Bridal gowns do average $350.00.  I’ve recently done a bridal alteration for $150, yet I have a couple of dresses that I’m working on now that are over $600 in alteration costs.  How does it get to be so expensive?  It is all dependent on the type of fabric, how many layers that need to be hemmed, fullness of the gown, how many layers of tulle netting, type of bustle, type of fitting changes that need to be made, etc.  If everything needs to be done along with a lot of changes, the price will be higher than the average.

What I recommend if you are price shopping, is to understand that a seamstress that has been altering gowns for some time won’t be able to give you a blank price/quote.  It’s not that we don’t understand that you are working with a budget, but rather we understand the time involved in taking apart and remaking the gown for you and your unique specifications.  Select a seamstress you feel comfortable working with so that you can enjoy the experience of preparing for your wedding.