When to Hem/Alter Your Gown

Prom season is in full swing!!  Beautiful gowns are arriving and now is the season you want to be sure you are allowing plenty of time to have the work done.

This blog post is two-fold:
1. When & where to alter & 2. What to look for when shopping to save on alteration costs

WHEN & WHERE TO ALTER:
1.  Do your best to plan at least 4 weeks for your gown alterations.  During the heavy prom season, if you call within the two to four weeks you could encounter a rush fee.  Personally it is one charge I don't like to have to add to someones' bill, because that means I have to work extra hours that week and it's money that my customer could have been saved.
2.  There are many wonderful seamstresses who can alter your gown.  Be sure you have confidence in the seamstress you have selected.
3.  If you are price shopping, be mindful that no seamstress can provide an "exact" estimate of the work you want them to do until they see the gown and how it fits.  Many clients call and want a quote on a hem, yet without seeing it, knowing the number of layers, type of fabric, bead and/or lace work can make a huge difference in how the work needs to be addressed.  The more experienced seamstress will be able to look at a dress and see the details involved in making the necessary adjustments, from fabric to construction.
4.  And if your goal in price shopping is to find the cheapest rate, all I recommend is to be cautious.  In some cases it will not matter, but in others, it will make a huge difference!!
5.  Sometimes you can get an estimate, but sometimes a client arrives and what they thought they needed, will not "make the dress" fit well.
6.  Do not compare the cost of your dress to the cost of your alterations, while it may cause me to giggle, it will cause you to panic.  If you were given a dress, got it on sale for less than $150, there is a good chance the alterations will cost start around $150 or more.  Unless of course it is a simple fix, based on the seamstress viewpoint.

I was contacted this past week about doing a "simple" hem, "it only needs to be brought up a little bit".  Just because the dress needs to be shorten a 1/2 in or more, it's not about how much needs to be taken up, it depends on the type of fabric and number of layers.  Providing this service takes time, and cannot be compared to what you spent on your gown.

This leads me to share with you, the consumer, on how to shop for your gown, in order to avoid alterations.  Now, please understand, that alterations are a huge part of my business.  I appreciate my loyal and new customers who place their trust in the work I provide for them.  While I enjoy being able to contribute to making a lady feel beautiful in her gown, as well as supporting my family with the wages I earn, I also understand that to have the work done, might not fit within everyone's budget.

TIPS FOR WHEN TRYING TO SAVE ON GOWN ALTERATION COSTS

1.  Wear the bra you plan on wearing...a good bra will make all the difference in the world!!  It can affect your hem length as well.
2.  Wear the heal height you plan on wearing with your gown.  Better than that is to bring your dress shoes with you to try on with your gown.  Most stores will not have a problem with this if you explain what you are doing!  They want to sell you a gown that you will keep!!  If the length is 1" off the floor with your heels, you are golden and no hem work is needed!!
3.  DON'T purchase a gown that is way too big in the bodice!!  If you can hide packages in the bodice, then the cost to adjust this alone could be more than you want to image!!
4.  A gown that is "slightly" too large, can be adjusted for a reasonable cost.
5.  Consider a tea length or knee length gown and be sure to purchase a petite length if you are under 5'5"
6.  If you have to choose between a dress that is too tight vs. too big (by one size) from the rack, take the one that is one size too big!!  Many dresses today do not have sufficient seam allowances to take dresses out.
7.  If you find the dress that you really have your heart set on, and it's too tight, check the seam allowance.  If you place your finger on the seam, from where it is stitched to the edge of the fabric, and you can't see the fabric, it cannot be taken out.  If you insist there is plenty of seam allowance, you will risk having to sign a waiver or the seamstress telling you it can't be done.
8.  Strapless dress & don't enjoy wearing a strapless bra?  Okay...have someone put the bra cups in for you. But, when you try the gown on, wear the bra you would want to wear if it had straps.  That way all you will need are the bra cups.
9.  Beaded and lace covered gowns cost more to alter than plain gowns.  This is going to be a choice though, as I know many young ladies who love the bling!!  It's fun, it sparkles, and makes them feel special.
10.  When selecting a gown filled with beads, look at it closely to be sure it is not losing them when you try the gown on.  Securing and/or re-beading gowns can be costly.
NOTE:   Not quite sure how to secure and/or re-bead?  I have provided clients with a private lesson/consult so they can do that work on their own for the dress they purchased as well as any future gowns they wish to embellish.
11.  Can't seem to find a dress to your liking?  Consider asking a friend of similar size if they might have a gown you can borrow or offer to purchase.  They make a little extra, you save the full cost of a gown and alteration costs.
12.  Last but not least...dance around in your gown.  Does it move nicely on you?  Is it too snug when you wrap your arms around yourself?  Is it too warm to wear during the short time you have it on in the dressing room?  Do you feel comfortable and beautiful in this gown?

My wish for all the young ladies attending prom this year:  Be safe, have fun, respect yourself, and enjoy being treated like a lady!!  Respectful young men enjoy treating a lady well.  And, by the way, it's okay for him to open your door.  My husband still opens mine and I love it!!

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
https://www.facebook.com/DavinaDawnSewingSpecialties
www.davinadawnsewing.com

What can be done to my Wedding Gown???

Can a gown be taken out?  Generally, with today’s off the rack styles, it is rare that there is sufficient seam allowance to do this.  I highly recommend NOT doing this if your gown only has a 5/8” seam.  It is better to find a gown that is slightly too big than to purchase something too small.  NOTE:  Always purchase a size based on your largest measurement!

It is important for clients to understand, that albeit opening up seams and creating a larger garment can be done, it is an expensive alteration request and there is no guarantee the dress will look like the original, as you have are now adding new seam lines.  So, with that in mind, here are a few options for taking your gown out:

• I have added more room to a variety of gowns when the client has provided the same fabric so proper gussets can be added. 

1. Some clients have brought me an identical gown for me to use the material to create the necessary gusset. 
2. Or taking your gown to a quality fabric store or contacting the manufacturer of your gown and acquiring matching fabric
3. Occasionally I will provide the service to search for the fabric.

• Add a Corset - Another option many of my clients have requested is to add a corset in the back.  Corsets allow for slight fluctuations in body size.  This can be expensive as well; depending on what specifically is entailed.  But all my clients that have requested this service have been very pleased with the results.

1. Matching or contrasting fabric needs to be acquired, along with the notions.
2. The tie ribbon & loops can also be created when they can not be found already made.  This happens frequently with so many varied fabric textures and colors

Can you add a Modesty Panel?  Modesty panels are becoming a common request due to the many styles of gowns that have a very low cleavage cut.  Whether wedding or prom, many of the girls want their dads to see them in a more modest style, and others find it to be more flattering while not having to worry if too much is showing.

What type of bustles can be done?  Every dress & client is different.  There are many options to a bustle.  When the client has her dress on, I look at how the dress fits her, how it flows, etc.  Then I discuss with them what they envision their bustle to look as well as how they would like it to function.  If they have an idea in mind, I will pin the bustle to show them how it looks.  If I see another possibility, I will show them that look as well, so that they are able to determine which bustle suits them best.  The goal is to find what is appropriate for the style of the dress as well as the wearer of the gown.

Is there any other option other than a bustle?  Certainly. 

• You can remove the train and create a straight hem for your gown.  This is a great option for the bride who doesn’t want things to be too complicated on her wedding day.  Discuss how this will be achieved with your seamstress, to be sure it is the style you desire.
• Ask your seamstress to create a special wristlet made with fabric from your dress or a soft, matching fabric.  You can request one that is beaded, possibly using beads you provide.  This is a nice option for the moderate trained dress, allowing you to comfortably wear the loop while you dance, or when walking around, yet lets you decide when you want to let the dress hang naturally for pictures.

What other things can I do to my gown?  This is generally done for the one who wants their gown to be unique and different from anyone else who might wear the same dress.

• Add/Remove trim and/or beading
• Add/Remove sleeves
• Add/Remove hem embellishments
• Add/Remove embellishments throughout the dress
• Add heirloom pieces into your gown (“something old”)

The options are endless.  Just discuss what it is you would like to have done with your seamstress.  A good seamstress will be open to your ideas and will discuss the pros/cons of how it will affect the look of your dress or whether it will work with the fabric and style of your dress.  But ultimately, the decision is yours.

What Bridal Fashion Fits You Best?

With so many engagements that have occurred since Christmas, New Year's and Valentine's Day, there are many searching the bridal stores for the "Perfect Dress".  Dresses look beautiful on the models with the sleek bodies that are shown in the magazines and other advertising venues, yet when we try the style on, we just don't seem to feel beautiful in it.

So, let's try to narrow down what might be the best look for you and your figure.

The Lovely Ball Gown, a style that has a fitted bodice, yet flairs out in a very full and bell shape.  A couple figure styles that look great in this style gown are the ladies who are slim, as well as the ladies who have a pear shape figure.
This is a beautiful style dress that is perfect for the fairy tale wedding.  Different necklines and with or without sleeves.  The skirt can be made with a variety of styles: draping layers of fine silk or chiffon to create an elegant look, covered in lace and beads, plain silk or satin, and many other fabric options.  The skirt will be supported with multiple layers of tulle & taffetta or might need a crinoline skirt to maintain it's fullness.
The A-line dress, also known as the Princess dress, has a nicely fitted bodice that fits well to one's rib-cage, yet flares gracefully along the rest of the body.  The nice part of this style dress is that it elongates one's body.  The A-line style dress fits most body types.  You can also get this style with a fuller flair.  It is a beautiful style for any type wedding.
The Princess style will have obvious elongated lines, from the neckline to hem, slenderizing the figure.  The A-Line will use a variety of fabrics creating a different look depending on the choice fabric.

The Sheath also known as the Column, is a very comfortable dress that will closely fit and follow the curves of your shape.  This is a lovely style with one who has a slender figure and those with an hour glass shape.  It's a lovely dress, it can be used with a variety of necklines and skirt lengths.  This is a great style for thin and well proportioned women.  Both tall and short women can wear this dress, and actually provide a sense of height for shorter women.
The benefit of this dress, is that many different fabrics can be used to provide different looks.  A great dress for any type of wedding...formal and informal.  A very modest style if worn with sleeves.

The Empire waist dress has a narrow bodice where the skirt portion starts just under the bustline.  If made with the lovely flowing polyester, chiffon fabrics, it is a beautiful option for thicker waistlines and pear shape hips.  This style looks lovely on many figures, although it is not a good design for the well endowed woman.  If you want to show off your hour glass figure, this would not be recommended.  With shoulder straps and with sleeves, this dress is a very elegant yet modest fashion.
This dress can be made with a couple layers, and depending on the fabrics chosen can change the look drastically.

The Mermaid style is a figure forming style that hugs the body which flairs out from the knees, or slightly above, to the floor.  This is designed looks lovely on a tall, slender figure with curves that desires to show off her figure.  Worn well by a woman with confidence.
Light fabrics will gently hug your figure, yet the heavy satins will hug your figure and accentuate any flaws you might have.
This style might have one of three style flairs: 1. The round flair will provide volume at the base of the dress.  2. The trumpet flair will provide volume behind the dress. 3. The Spanish flair, a flamenco look, will gather slightly in front and around the dress in layers.

I caution one to not go for the dress that will accentuate the flaws you find uncomfortable to share.  You want to feel beautiful, and when selecting dresses for your bridal party, remember their figures as you select their style.  Remember, you can always get different dresses in the same color.

So, consider your figure, browse the many bridal magazines, and select all that you like.  And remember, you might not be able to find or afford the dress you desire from a book, but you might not look well in them either.  BUT, you can make any change you want to your dress that you desire. 

You can also refashion a dress you are given, find second hand, on clearance, etc. to the look you desire.  Remember, this is YOUR special day.  My goal when I work with brides, as I alter, create bustles or refashion their dress, is to make their dress look the way that they want it to look.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/

A Delighted Bride and Mom

One of the many joys I am blessed with, is when a bride requests something unique for her dress.  Most often my job will be to take in the bodice or the waist along with the hem.  Sometimes I will be asked to add some trim, remove a flower and reshape the shirt, or simply remove the sleeves.  But my most recent job was different than most, yet provided the most fullfillment  It was taking something old and creating something new for the bride.

The bride's mother saved her own wedding dress, in hopes that one day her daughter would wear it at her own wedding.  What a joy it must have been when her daughter said she wanted to wear it.  The only thing that would be different would be that she wanted her dress to be restyled to a more modern look.

Those of us who got married in the last 70's through early 80's remember the high collars and puffy sleeves, and other Gunne sax style dresses.  The dress that was to be restyled had the high collar that zipped up in the back, which the bride decided needed a little updating.  The bride provided a picture from a bridal magazine, sharing what she wanted her dress to look like.  To provide this look, I removed the collar and netting that was on the neck, shorten the zipper creating a "V" shape in the back, and reapply the original lace that was on the original dress.  Both the bride and myself were excited to see that would could use all that was on the original dress without having to use anything new.

The work was tedious, yet such a delight.  I love to create unique items, including refashioning any garment of clothing when I have the opportunity.  The easiest part of my job was to understand my clients desire, which she was able to clearly communicate  her wish.  She knew what she wanted, had a picture to help share her idea's, and I was able to move forward with her request.

The dress is now complete.  The bride arrived with her mom today for the final fitting.  And the most full-filling part of my job was when the bride smiled and shared how happy she was, along with her mom sharing that I did "magic" to her dress.

There is nothing more satisfying than a job well done, where the client leaves with a huge smile of delight.

Enjoy the after pictures!

Refashioned for a modern, elegant look

It is such a delight when a client comes in with their idea of what they would like to have for their wedding dress. 

My most recent client arrived with her mother's wedding dress.  In her desire to wear her mom's dress, she also wanted to refashion it to be more modern for her own personal style preference.

The request was to remove the high collar and full back zipper and transform the dress into a more modern yet elegant style.  I removed all the trim and neck netting, shortened the zipper, secured the bustle buttons, and changed the back to a v-shape providing a very elegant look for the bride.  After all the work was done to remove the old, the next step was to use all the original lace trim along the new lines of the bodice lines.  The bride requested that the lace overlap the edges, providing a lacy effect along the edges of the dress.

One knows that the bride has made a wonderful decision when clients, who come by for their own alterations, see her dress on the dress form and share how beautiful the dress is.

I personally love the old fashion look, so when she brought the dress to me, I was thinking it was beautiful to begin with. Once I understood what the bride wanted, I was able to take her mom's beautiful country style wedding dress and transform it into a more modern, elegant style that I was honored to create.

~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

Laura - Custom Seamstress

http://www.davinadawnsewing.com/