Deciding when to alter a garment - educating the customer

Men slacks with shorten cuffed hem

Jean hem shorten to look like original

Throughout the course of a day or week, I receive a variety of phone calls from clients looking to have a variety of alteration work done.  It ranges from a simple hem to replacing thick leather jacket type zippers, among the many other type of inquiries.

Unfortunately I cannot possibly know for certain what each item will cost until I see the garment/item.  But, for those who are ready to run over with the basket of clothing or a pair of jeans they just received at an incredible deal, I share with them that my hems range starting around $20.  For some this is too much.  But, what it does do is allow them to take a look at what they have and decide if the cost outweighs the value of their garment/item.

This provides me the opportunity to educate my potential client.  Using jeans as my example; depending on how much of a hem change needs to be made on the jeans, depends on how much time is involved.  It's not always about cutting and hemming, but rather removing the secure jean type stitching, measuring and remeasuring to make sure I am placing the hem where the client has chosen for the length they chose to wear them at.

There is more to a hem than sitting at a machine and stitching.  These are the steps for pant hems (not including overhead costs):

1. meet with the client  - sometimes they have already pinned the garment and other times I need to spend 15 min fitting to the shoe height they desire to wear their pants with.
2. determine if the hem can be cut off, or stitches need to be removed
3. if applicable, remove the old stitching
4. cut the excess off
5. refold, add bias tape, etc...whatever is needed to prepare for the new hem
6. either machine stitch, jean stitch, blind stitch or hand stitch in place.
7. put thread into machine and replace needle to make sure there are no burrs to snag material from over-use of a previous order (or thread a needle if hand stitching)
8. press the hem
9. double check to make sure the length is accurate
10. create their invoice, email (sometimes followed up with a phone call) and schedule a meeting for them to try on and pick up their garment(s)
11. hang garment(s) and clean up to prepare for next sewing or alteration job.

Not everyone is willing to value the work that goes into making their garment fit them well, as they look at the cost they paid and subconsiously have decided what they are willing to pay.  Yet some will take the time and rationalize that "well, I paid $120 for these dress slacks, I want them done well", or "I got a great deal, it is worth the extra that I saved to get the length I need", etc.  While others will not take the time to understand that my time is invested on their behalf so that they look great!  People work hard for their earnings and there's nothing more discouraging when, no matter how much or little, realize that their awesome deal will cost them more than a few dollars to fit well.

My goal as a seamstress, whether creating from materials and patterns, heirlooms from a wedding gown, applying military patches or even the basics of hemming jeans and replacing zippers, is to provide a quality service that makes the customer leave knowing that I care about how they look or feel about their final product. 

I want my customers to feel good about the value of service they are receiving from my seamstress skills.

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~

The Wrong Way To Hem

As we all try to stretch our dollars to make them go farther, there are times when one can actually be wasting them.

Recently I have been getting a variety of phone calls in reference to how much it costs to have a pair of pants hemmed.  The cost ranges based on what type of hem, type of fabric, whether they are lined, etc.  Pant hem costs can range from $18 to $35, sometimes more (yet rare), depending on what is entailed.

For many of my clients, this is a small price to pay for a pair of pants to fit them the way that fits their life-style, along with the ability to gravitate towards them when selecting what to wear for the day.  For other first time clients who are in need of hiring a seamstress/tailor, the price is too high.

But, for those who are trying to save financially, here are some of the things that they are doing to keep costs down, along with the cost of their choice:

1. Not hemming and allowing their pants to drag on the ground.  This causes more damage than it’s worth.  If all you need is a 1” hem, by allowing them to drag, you are actually destroying the ability to have the hem fixed at a later time, at the proper length.  Also, it looks sloppy.  If you are in the position for a job, and it comes down to two candidates, the one with the pant hem dragging will be seen as sloppy and unorganized.
2. Using Duct Tape.  This is a great option when you are a teen who is creating their own “look” that is worn to school as an expression of themself, around town or around the home.  It is not a great temporary fix for jeans or dress slacks that you wear to different functions and work.  Actually it will cost you more in the long run, as it will leave residue on your pants that is extremely difficult to remove, if at all.  If it can be hemmed, by removing the duct tape, cutting the hem then folding up before stitching, it will cost more.  The seamstress/tailor will need to calculate in the cost of the needle, because it is certain that his/her needle will be destroyed after working on your one pair of pants due to the sticky residue left, making it non-usable for future jean hems that might be in his/her pile of repairs.  There will be more work involved in hemming your pants that you might decide to just purchase a new pair.
3. Using Self-adhesive Velcro.  I don’t know why this approach was taken, but I received a desperate call for help with the caller asking what she could do.  She was left with Velcro backing on part of her pants that she was having a difficult time removing.  The best advice would be to take them to the cleaners to see if they can remove the residue.  I personally will not provide the service to remove it.  When asked how much I would charge, I gave her my rate, with an “approximate” cost (since I did not know what was entailed).  I was told that she only  $25 on her pants.  This $25 pair of pants has now cost the client the cost of Velcro, time to iron on, time to remove, time to put through the washer, frustration/panic time, possible dry-cleaner time, with the possibility of having to toss a brand new pair of pants out to the landfill. 
4. This new product called “Style Snaps”  I have seen this product advertised but have not used it myself.  I did have a client call me to alter her pants because the product did not work out for her, as the product did not adhere and stay put.  Still, I will not say the product doesn’t work, because I have not used it, yet have no intention of trying it either.  There is a reason that it is said “If it seems too good to be true, it probably is”.
5. Cuff your pants.  This is not an uncommon decision for those who found their $10 jeans, they just purchased, on clearance.  Many times I recommend that they return them and purchase the right size at the correct length if they don’t like the cuffed look.

My reason for writing this is to educate.  I have no desire to make one feel as though their ideas are bad, or to make them feel they need to use my services.

The cost of purchasing a pair of slacks that are too long can include the travel time and alteration cost.  You could spend valuable time trying different quick fixes resulting in your need to toss them or decide to pay for the service so you can wear them.  Another option would be to have a family member or friend do the work as a favor (some are very good).  Or, let them hang in your closet a few years until you finally toss them out while you purchase a few more.

In today’s economy, it is wiser to purchase a sufficient amount of pants to get you through until your next wash day.  If you find a pair that fit well except for the length it is wise to have them hemmed.

Just like any job, any task you undertake takes a certain amount of time, which comes at a cost.  A seamstress/tailor, who is running a business, carries a certain amount of overhead including paying the taxes associated with it, which needs to be calculated into their costs or it becomes a hobby.   A hobby doesn’t pay the bills.

One way you can save on your alteration cost:  We all know that many retailers have sales.  We also know that retailers do not make a size that fits all, more often for women.  Consider waiting for the sale and use the savings towards the cost of the alteration.  But, don’t value the cost of your alteration on the cost you paid.  The goal is to look great in that fabulous pair of pants that makes you feel great wearing them.

Laura
Davina Dawn Sewing Specialties
~ Putting Thread to Fabric ~